Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,100m); May 8

Photo: Lead Sherpa Tindoop in our tent at Camp 2; strong, tireless and savvy, he was key to our progress on Kalanag. Photo (by Yveline Gobil): Phuba Sherpa and I on our way to Camp 2; we were HOT under the sun on that glacier; but it soon clouded up and started to snow.

Climbed to 5,100m/16,800'. This was a good day of easy climbing from Camp 1 to Camp 2. As we left, I wondered how it would be to move up to about 17,000'... I hoped I was acclimatized enough. We took it slowly until we warmed up... and then just found an even, steady pace. Tindoop led across the section of crevasses, between seracs so that we could find the right side of the glacier... the traditional route on the left had been wiped out the prior Fall by an avalanche/rockfall... so this was a new route. The crossing was pretty straightforward, following the route that Tindoop set.

We arrived at Camp 2 by about 2PM... this site was on a col, protected from avalanche danger and wind. As we had been leaving our lower camp, Raja asked if I would mind joining the sherpas and himself in their tent, to save the weight of carrying my single tent. I agreed, not knowing exactly what I was in for. After we got set up, it started to snow pretty hard. As Phuba started the kerosene stove to melt snow for our water/cooking, I realized that this was going to be 'interesting'. The stove is like a blowtorch that burns kerosene... it was set up in the vestibule of the tent and the fumes filled the tent. I asked Raja if we were going to get carbon monoxide poisoning... but he reassured me that there was enough fresh air. However, the scent of kerosene basically permeated everything. Phuba runs that stove for about 6-8 hours each day!! By that evening I was dreading the night... it would be an uncomfortable bivy. Basically, all four of us were crammed into a 2 person tent... I was shoulder to shoulder with Tindoop, and he was sandwiched between Raja and me. Phuba had his head opposite to ours, with his feet on our lower bodies and his head into the vestibule. Nobody could move one inch without jostling the others. Tindoop sounded like he had a death rattle in his lungs... I don't know how he was able to perform so well climbing with this cough... I visualized myself getting whatever germ he was carrying around... doubted that I would perform well with that up at this altitude.

At about 2AM I heard the stove start up... I hadn't slept more than an hour or so in short intervals... I got my boots and clothes on and went outside to wait for our departure. At that point it was clear and cold, a moonless night with magnificent stars all around the Himal Pradesh.

Mindful Moment: I stand looking up... breathing and watching the mountains... listening to the whisper of the wind. I know that this is a perfect place for me to be.
Raja and the sherpas are getting ready and Phuba eventually brings breakfast tea to Y/E. By 3:30 all are getting ready to go. The weather is not looking good, as clouds are already formed over Bandarpunch and we can see that today will be a short climbing window. We will not make it to the summit. Raja decides that instead we should wait a few hours and then set out for a higher point, setting up a 3rd camp at about 18,500'. The sherpas set out to do recon on the route and we all climb back into the tents for some rest. I sleep for a couple of hours until they return.