Delhi-Chicago-Buffalo-Rochester; May 23

Photo Below (by Carol Shields): Walking out of the terminal at Buffalo Airport... happy to see Carol. 24 hours of travel since I left Rishikesh...

Photo: Delhi ... all wired for the busy city life... it seemed so hectic.

The scene at the Delhi airport was actually comical. I have traveled a lot but never had an experience quite like this. Beginning with not being able to enter the airport with my e-Ticket confirmation and walking a few city blocks to the American Airlines office to have my ticket printed... and ending with NO KIDDING... three trips through the security screen and a total of three times repacking my checked bags to balance the weight (true)... I finally got moving toward the departure lounge. Had I not had 2 plus hours to work with I may have missed my flight.

First class is so easy... floated gently back to Chicago. Changed airports (to Midway) to catch my flight to Buffalo where Carol was waiting... with camera in hand... to greet me. It was a wonderful reunion for both of us...

Mindful Moment: After landing at O'Hare I hesitate as I turn on my Blackberry... it has been off for weeks and I don't miss it. I breathe... and push the button. I'm back.

Home two hours later and ready to catch up on life in the family. Carol kept a daily journal and sent that to me by email; but I was not ready to restart with the electronic connections. I was already thinking about the next trip to India. We are working on that now...

I definitely want to go back to Rishikesh. Despite the tourist feel that is evident everywhere, it is still a great place to experience yoga/ayurvedic life in India. I am also hoping to get to some other places. We would go back to Leh as well... may do another climb too... so much to do.

Rishikesh; May 22 - Travel to Delhi in PM

Photo: The walk to Parmath Niketan in Ram Jhula... lined with ascetics... and cows, of course.

This was my final day and most enjoyable day in Rishikesh. I had finally found my way to an ashram that was perfect for me. I went to Parmath Niketan with a fellow traveler - Marjolaine from France. She was also staying at the Sant Seva ashram in Laxman Jhula, and had checked out a number of ashrams along the way. I had recommended trying PN, and she confirmed that it had the yoga environment I was hoping to find. We were joined by another spiritual traveler, Lucie (French born but living in NYC)... so it was the three of us walkng the path to Ram Jhula and going to asana, chanting, pranayama and dhyana practice there. Between sessions we went to Ganga View Ayurvedic Cafe which is a favorite for me in Rishikesh now.

For my return to Delhi, I had arrangements to meet a taxi at the stand on the other side of the Ganges, so I stayed as long as I could at PN - originally planned to go to asana practice and then return to pack bags, etc.; but it was so good that I decided to stay for pranayama, chanting, and meditation at PN. So, after class I only had about an hour before I left... had to hurry back to finish packing and move out. It rained in sheets on the way back and we were all soaked to the skin. It was warm and enjoyable... I ended up walking in bare feet as my flip flops were just flopping around at that point.

Got to the ashram, threw my stuff into duffels and two young guys from the ashram offered to be porters (still schlepping all of the climbing gear). Rain stopped as we walked over the bridge and the sun popped out. Driver was late by about an hour, due to traffic.

Trip to Delhi was about 6 hours. I would take the train next time... the roads are so bad and noisy... first-class train is the preferred way to travel. We arrived in Delhi to gridlock traffic... due to monsoon rains.

I went back to Regent Continental Hotel to meet with the importer... last shot at getting carpets... bought a couple of gifts for Carol.

Off to the airport with our original tourist driver from the first day in Delhi... closed the loop where I started.

Airport tipping scene was vintage for poor countries... tip everyone who got their hands on my bags or hire one guy to take care of all this stuff...


Photo of mystic walking toward Ram Jhula.

Rishikesh; May 21

Photo on my balcony after my return to health...

My little bout of sickness was over in about 24 hrs. thanks to the wonderful doc who came twice to treat me.

This was a low key day, just starting to eat again (rice/yogurt/mint tea w ginger)... as prescribed. I did gentle yoga and meditation/chanting.

Walked to Ram Jhula along the river bank, looking for stones for friends. This rounded out my collection with one from some significant place in each of the three regions I visited (Hemis Monastery, Kalanag Glacier, and Ganges River at Rishikesh).

I also cleared my list of gifts for family and friends by doing some quick shopping. I had basically been checking off this list as I went along... but needed to finalize it before leaving.

Night time Kirtan from the temple was so sweet... just floating across the river. I was able to look from my balcony directly into the temple next door... able to see the whole ceremony... including the nightly fire puja.

Rishikesh; May 20

Photo of my desk, with electrolytes and meds... and yoga sutras.

This was a sick day... my second bout during the trip. I got some intestinal bug that took off pretty quickly... started with diarrhea and a general feeling of being sick. After meditation I went to get something light for breakfast, but just couldn't face the idea of eating anything. I did get some juice and force myself to eat a few crackers. My weight was still down a bit from the mountain trip and I didn't want to lose more ground there.

I have been reading The Yoga Sutras of Patanjali, as interpreted and translated by Alistair Shearer. I find this to be a very easy to read/understand book. As with all translations, his interpretation differs a bit from others I've read, including that in BKS Iyengar's Light on Yoga; but these are subtle differences in how each interprets some of the Sanskrit (e.g. Niyama - Svadhyaya). I have been reading this book for a while (several months) and continued to read it while I was sick at the Ashram. I continue to find new gems of truth/wisdom in there. I have also been looking for the similarities between the precepts of buddhism and the eight limbs (e.g lay precepts and Yama/Niyama). I am not very analytical about this... by choice... I just enjoy seeing similarities and following the limbs to the same roots.
But, I did get sick enough that all I could do was lie in bed. By the afternoon I was running a fever and feeling a bit delirious. I could not eat or drink anything without getting sick... so I just tried to wait it out in my room, lying there and trying to read. I knew I was dehydrating from the diarrhea... and felt pretty weak. Finally I stumbled my way out to the reception desk and told them I needed to see a doctor. Lo and behold, they make house-calls! So, I went back to my room and sure enough, my Ayurvedic doc showed up. I don't remember all of this but he did check out vital signs, etc. He gave me some anti-emetic so that I could get some antibiotic and fluid into my system. He also gave me a good electrolyte powder and told me to force myself to get a couple of liters down within a few hours.

That evening, I was running out of the electrolytes so I went up front to see if one of the guys there could find some for me. I gave them money and went back to bed. A while later I responded to a knock at the door... and next thing i knew I was back in bed after passing out and being helped into bed by the kid with the electrolytes... and the Doc returned to scold me for getting up. They were all very compassionate and kind. I went back to bed and weathered the rest of the worst of it. I sat and did some chanting... eventually did fall asleep for several hours.



This day was just as good as any other in India. It was a day of practicing patience and just staying present for this part of the trip.

Rishikesh; May 19

Photo of Monkeys and close relatives... taken from German Bakery - a popular place for Westerners.

Photo (Below) of ritual bathing in Ganges... in front of the temple just next to Sant Seva - view from my balcony.

Up at 5:30AM for gentle yoga and meditation... I remember being wide awake at 3AM and doing some yoga then as well... I'm not used to getting this much sleep for sure.

I sat on the balcony at sunrise listening to the chanting from the temple across the Ganges. It goes on for several hours morning and night... different voices leading each day.

My energy level is still low and I want to take some time to rest and rebuild after the mountains. This is the perfect way to re-enter.

I took an easy day, just walking and sitting and reading... enjoying this break... enjoying silence. I did not have any conversations this day.

Dinner was at the German Bakery... a mistake? I found myself getting an intestinal bug later that night.... at one point I just decided that I needed to start eating some fresh veggies and I'm pretty sure I was paying the price for that decision.

I don't have a mirror, but when I took a self-photo on the balcony I saw that I had lost quite a bit of weight... which I could tell at some level; but it was a bit starker to see it.

Rishikesh; May 18

Photo: My Room at Sant Seva

Got up at 5AM and practiced…. Yoga and meditation in my room in silence. The day dawned beautiful...sun on the Ganges below... daily bathing rituals... and morning Kirtan chanting across the river.
I stayed quiet for most of this day… walked to Ram Jhula and back. Listened and watched. Made my way to yoga, Intermediate, in the afternoon. It was a bit deeper but a similar experience to Saturday. Only a few people including Marjolaine again. After class we talked about finding another yoga place… I had seen dozens of signs along the path between the Jhulas, including an Ashtanga class at 8AM.
I was pretty tired from all of the travel and the climb as well… so it was good to just have some restful time. Yinyasa yoga seemed like too much work at this point... I was enjoying the slower asana practice for now.
Meditation on the balcony and some sleep.

Rishikesh; May 17

Photo: Room with a view... Ganga Ma from my balcony at Sant Seva Ashram

in Laxman Jhula...

After our final night in Haridwar we met on the roof of the City Heart Hotel for breakfast. Sunny morning and the promise of a hot, humid day. We took final photos of the view over Ganges. Raja met us for breakfast (bread, some fried things like donuts, and lots of fresh fruit).
I arranged a taxi to Rishikesh (about 700 Rupees) and the others waited for their taxi to Delhi. Raja was headed right back into the mountains after dropping our crew off in Delhi and meeting an incoming group of Irish climbers. We felt a bit sorry for him… he seemed very tired and a bit down… Dr. B. was going to stay in Delhi for a few days, after finding out that he couldn’t get an earlier flight to the US without paying some exorbitant change fees. I had invited him to try the ashram but he was completely cold to that idea… so off to Delhi he went.
I was happy to get my stuff into the taxi and set out on a solo adventure to Rishikesh. That was a welcome change to the close proximity of the prior four weeks… the ride is about ½ hour. When we got to the taxi stand on the West side of the Ganges at Laxman Jhula I found a porter to carry my heavy duffel bag across the footbridge to Sant Seva Ashram, for about 200 rupees.
I checked into the ashram and got settled. Chose a non-A/C room, but one with a balcony on the Ganges. The cost is about 400 rupees per day and this excludes meals and yoga. Sant Seva is very much like a hotel with yoga classes. There is a restaurant overlooking the river. I had not realized that there was a 100/class charge for the yoga. So, this is a relatively expensive ashram in that sense. It felt much more like a hostel/hotel. There was an STD p[hone and internet available at the office.
Went to intermediate yoga class at 4PM. There were only 4 others at this class. Here’s what it was like… I dropped my mat and stretched out a bit… only one other person, a young woman named Marjolaine (schoolteacher from France) was there. I asked if she’d been to class there before and found out that she too had just arrived that day. The instructor walked in and without a word rolled out a mat and started the class. He spoke English in a soft voice with a very heavy accent… he announced a pose, told us to ‘observe as I demonstrate the pose’, and then, ‘now you take the pose’. He also told us in a monotone, mechanical voice the benefits of the pose. He was very good at the poses and obviously had a rigorous formal training. The asana was gentle and we held poses for several breaths. The entire 90 minute class was about a dozen poses, with a lengthy Savasana at the end. No pranayama - just Ujayi breathing during asana. We did chant OM numerous times in closing. It was a quiet experience. I enjoyed it. I would later see the instructor hanging around the office/TV at the ashram and eventually we’d have a light conversations.
The ashram was pretty vacant. I saw only a few other people there… including the two women who had been there the day before.
After yoga I showered and walked over to the German bakery across the footbridge. This is a Western café scene… the first concentration of non-indians I had seen since the trek to Seema. I could overhear all kinds of inane banter… It was a bit jarring and I did not hang around any longer than it took to get some light dinner (and some bread/peanut butter for the next morning’s breakfast).

I enjoyed meditation on the balcony that night, listening to Kirtan chanting from both the temple next door as well as one across the river. This continued until about 10PM. I slept several hours.